See an interesting chart, almost contemporary
(1923), showing a proposed relationship between dress length, etc., and
painful menstruation, in Woman's Physical Freedom,
a book by Clelia Duel Mosher, M.D., and read a discussion
of dress length and bodily functions, on this site.
See ads for Pursettes: September
1972 (letter testimonial) - August 1973 (letter
testimonial) - February 1974 (cartoon story) -
August 1974 (cartoon story) - October
1974 (cartoon story)

|

Ads for open- and closed-seat drawers (underpants)
(1922 Spring-Summer Montgomery Ward & Co. catalog, U.S.A.)
Open-seat underpants (see drawings
of an older pair showing how they "worked") enabled women to easily
urinate and defecate without having to reach under their dresses to pull
down or remove anything. It also allowed them to wear a menstrual belt and
pad over their underpants, since the pad could pass through the opening
(see a German drawing from 1888). That's my theory,
anyhow.
Open seats had at least two disadvantages. They didn't
1. adequately protect clothing against
stains from bodily fluids and solids
2. conceal the genitals if the clothing
rose high enough, or if the observer was low enough, or both; concealment
seems to have been the main reason underpants came into being.
But after World War I dresses became shorter and less bulky, making
closed-crotch underpants - still long; they seem not to have become short and tight until the mid 1930s - unnecessary,
so the crotches closed.
This 1922 catalog, in a transitional period, might be one of the last
one to sell open-seat underpants. Some one-piece underwear covering most
of the body has retained a helpful drop-seat feature.
See an interesting chart, almost contemporary
(1923), showing a proposed relationship between dress length, etc., and
painful menstruation, in Woman's Physical Freedom,
a book by Clelia Duel Mosher, M.D., and read a discussion
of dress length and bodily functions, on this site.
|
 |
Below:
Open-seat (crotchless) drawers from probably right before 1900. See more
details.

Rear view.
Below:
Rear view with schematic menstrual-pad belt showing how the belt can be
worn on top of the underpants (see how menstrual-pad suspenders
looked). Ands see German crotchless underpants
designed to hold a pad (1888, contemporary drawing).
|

|
See a belt ad from the 1920s in
the U.S.A.
|
Dress from the catalog.

"A particularly smart frock which reflects in every
line the latest New York style," reads the ad copy for the first dress
(and in color) in this 1922 catalog. On the same page we read, "Our
own fashion experts, living in New York all the year round, and studying
the styles, have selected for you the best of everything new this season.
If you select a dress from these pages you know positively in advance that
you are to have the pleasure of wearing an authoritative new style."
Women could maneuver better in the dresses of 1922 and decreasingly
needed the convenience and disadvantages of an open seat.
|
| |
Right:
Enlargement from the dress ad. This is typical of the dreamy, seductive
drawings of houses of the time in America.
|
 |
© 2001 Harry Finley. It is illegal to reproduce or distribute any
of the work on this Web site in any manner or medium without written permission
of the author. Please report suspected violations to hfinley@mum.org
|
|